Jomsom
is more correctly known as Dzongsam or New Fort. It spreads
over both the banks of the Kali Gandaki. The towering peaks
of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri form an attractive backdrop. Being
the district headquarters, it is primarily an administrative
and commercial center with government officials and merchants
rubbing shoulders with the local inhabitants of the region,
known as the Thakalis. It has a wireless station, a police
station, a bank, a hospital and a veterinary hospital. A
company of the Nepalese Army is stationed here. Nearby is
an airfield, from where flights operate regularly. However,
due to the strong winds that buffet the area in the afternoons,
the airfield is functional only in the forenoon.
The Thakalis living in the Jomsom region and in the nearby
villages of Marpha and Tukuche have been known for their
trading skills. They occupy an important village on the
traditional trade route between the Gangetic plains of India
and Tibet.
The views from Jomsom are enchanting as the Nilgiri and
Dhaulagiri ranges reflect the golden rays of the rising
and setting sun. The entire panorama is filled with a
golden, glittering light, which forms a dramatic contrast
with the barren, black and dry mountains of the surrounding
Kali Gandaki valley.
The views of the mountains are spectacular, and the route
actually crosses to the other side of the main Himalayan
range for some unusual views of the northern flanks. The
entire route remains below 3000 metres, though the trek
is still strenuous enough to be stimulating (see the Route
Profile for the trek around Annapurna). This is a good
trek if you wish to avoid high altitudes.
Muktinath, situated at a height of 3,660 m, is an important
pilgrimage center for both Hindus and Buddhists. The most
prominent shrine is a Vishnu temple where 108 spouts,
fashioned in the shape of cows' heads, pour forth water
that is considered to be holy. This water is channeled
from a stream running above the temple. The temple is
built in Tibetan style and contains huge brass idols of
Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, and Kali. Nearby is another temple
where water gushes out of a rock and this water is considered
even more holy. There is also a Buddhist Gompa (monastery),
and a pagoda-type temple dedicated to Jwala Mayi (goddess
of fire). In this temple, shielded by curtains, are the
outlets for the natural gas that oozes from the rock and
feeds the temple flame.
There is also a spring close by. These three elements
together are considered to be an auspicious convergence
of earth, fire and water.
There are two temples of note, a dilapidated temple with
the idols of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati, and a
Narsingh temple where rituals are performed according
to both Hindu and Buddhist customs. Here the two religions
coexist together and in the two-story structure, the lower
story is the Gompa while the upper story is the temple.
Muktinath and its high valley are located in the Mustang
Bhote region. The climate and landscape here are similar
to those of the Tibetan Plateau since it is situated in
the rain shadow of the Greater Himalayas. Flowing through
the region from north to south and forming deep gorges
is the Kali Gandaki river, which as its name implies (kali
= black) is a black river -- the black stones of the riverbed
and black soil contributing to the effect
